So it's day 92 of the adventure and so I have done my 80 days in India!! Back in the Uk now. Visa arrives tomorrow.
India was some experience but boy I am relieved to have left. And that is certainly not to say don't go because if the opportunity is there you should, it's just that out of ever where I have been I have never had such a sensory and I think emotional overload both in a good and a bad way!
Flew to Dubai from India on the 25th to see Amy and that was lovely. As my reintegration present Amy booked us in to have our nails done and I discovered a colour called wicked! Having felt like my feet had been dirty for the last three months it was a perfect treat-not sure how the beautician felt about it!!!
I had warned Amy that I ever such ticklish feet but until she saw it for herself I don't think she believed me. Honesty its a good job there were not many people in the nail place!
We spent the day too at an amazing water park where you just have no dignity having to readjust your swim suit after ever ride. It's rather difficult to adjust discreetly because there are always people around in every direction. You float around in these big rubber hoops all day and there are rapids and huge slides. It was such good fun-thanks Amy. It was such a refreshing change from India.
Dubai is very opulent, clean and sunny. I could not stop looking at the Emirates in the mall in their traditional clothing of white robes for the men with red and white checked scarves and all black for the women. I do not know the correct terms for the clothes so please feel free to comment at the bottom. Its nice to get it right! Oh and it did tickle me to see a few in NY Yankee caps!!!
For me, it just seemed so weird that the locals and by that I mean the Emirates, were just sat in a certain chain of coffee shop drinking coffee. I have probably just got some stereotype in my head that they should be outside riding around on camels! I mean they are no different from us in terms of wanting to go shopping or to eat or go for coffee I guess but I have never been to the Middle East so this was a whole new visual experience a bit like the women on their saris in India.
I would like to get to know more about their culture but I think it is very hard. I was catting to Maria about it all, she lives there too, and I am not sure that the local people want to integrate with the ex-pats. I think no matter how much you would want to embrace the culture and learn I am not sure how easy it would be. I am not sure though that people go there to learn about the culture, maybe they just go for a nice lifestyle and that's okay I think if that's what you want to do.
Maria said she had been to learn Arabic which seems like a wicked idea to me if you are living in Dubai. I think she was kind of hoping to get a bit more involved but she said that its hard. Women have to seek their husband's permission to even do things like open a bank account and withdraw money.
Drinking is also an issue. You are allowed a licence but when you purchase alcohol it is also registered with your employer! There are big buffets that people go to on a Thursday night or Friday where you pay to eat and drink as much as you want. I am not sure but it sounds like for some it may well just be one huge piss up at an amazing hotel! I did not got to one so I cannot judge really but I guess if its the only time that people are allowed to drink then its bound to get a bit messy at time, good fun I hope too!
Being in Dubai although brief and in India really makes me think that we are so lucky to live where we do because whilst there are issues we're not segregated and I think most people are open to learning about others or sharing their culture with others. We have laws about health and safety too! Now that's probably a whole blogging issue in itself!
To some extent Dubai reminded me of India in terms of building relationships because it seems unless you are introduced to some one you don't really talk to anyone. Dad said he had also found this to be the case. Maybe its a trust thing that if you are not from that country, religion or background but are introduced to the new acquaintance by some one from the same country, religion or background there is an acceptance of you.
It just seems a shame to me because its hard to cross the barriers and that's what is needed, we need to understand each other and how different people live. I think it makes the world a better place but its interesting that some cultures do not appear to want to allow others to understand them.
I did have one gem moment in a shop in Dubai when a local lady came over to me, I could not really see her as she was completely covered in black except for her eyes and hands. She said the sandals I was trying on looked nice. I was really surprised that she spoke to me but actually quite chuffed. I would say she was in her twenties with the most amazing eyes and make up and rather well off judging by the Gucci handbag!
Then she asked me about my nail polish and what it was called and where I had had it done. Just for a moment I was thinking oh my gosh, see you can cross the barriers and it kind of reminded me that there are all these women in the world who do have connections. Okay so the connection here was shoes and nails and not some in depth discussion about culture or politics but it was a common ground and a connection. It made me think of the book club scene in Sex and the City 2 in Abu Dabi!!!
I wished I could have asked her to go for a cup of coffee or her email address. I have no idea if that would have been acceptable or not but it would have been amazing to have had the opportunity to maybe get to know her.
Okay that's blogging done for the day. Off to catch a train to Bournemouth now!
So, I have never done on of these things before but have often thought about it. Sometimes thought it was rather self indulgent expecting people to read all about me!! But hey ho, I have begun and we shall see where it leads...
Monday, October 4, 2010
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Day 79-Tuesday 21st September 2010
So its the penultimate day in India so I think that today's picture is quite apt. I took it on the ferry back to Port Blair.
Right first I just need to quickly finish the holiday. So on the Friday we thought we were going for a little driving tour around the island but then we were told that the driver would be picking us at three to catch the four thirty ferry. We assumed it would be the quick one we came on but oh no! We got to the ferry port after the driver turned about half an hour late and then he had lost the tickets. He then asked us for the snorkeling money which we thought was part of the package. We gave him half the money which was a good job as we had to buy new ferry tickets or stay on Havelock another night!
So with ten minutes to spare we boarded the ferry which was the government two hour ferry. We had seats except the seats were bunk beds below deck. Honestly it was gross! Hot, insect ridden with a spattering of what looked like blood on the wall! We left our bags and went up and stood on the front deck for most of the journey which actually turned out to be really rather nice as we watched the sun set as we sailed back to Port Blair. We had been trying to see a sun set or sun rise all week but for one reason or another never made it.
Back at Port Blair we had to disembark from our ferry onto another which was a little scary as we had to walk across a plank over the water and we had our luggage! Luckily there was a driver waiting for us to take us to the hotel. We arrived and I got a bit stressed because a lot of our clothes were still damp from the island and I just wanted to get everything sorted whereas MT just wanted to relax and sit on the balcony. I think that was our only moment all holiday but I soon got over it, unpacked and we wet for a drink. MT was not hungry but I managed to eat tempura and Massala cheese toast! I think the chap serving us must have thought I was right greedy heffa!!
Next morning we had negotiated a later check out otherwise it would have been seven. We packed up and went for breakfast looking out over the sea. The driver picked us up and drove us to the airport. I kept thinking how nice it was just to have the sun shining and fresh air and no cars honking their horns.
When it was boarding time we just waited for the queue to die down as once again as seems to be the case here it was a bit of a push and shove and again no need because seats had been allocated.
We had a long wait at the airport at Chennai but it was fine. MT watched a DVD, I read my book and watched the TV, as well as the people, as it was showing lots of the Ganesha celebrations all over India.
There was a Ganesha parade here on Sunday. I got up and could hear music and drums and so went outside to see what was going on. There was a group of men dancing in the road and a tractor with a big Ganesha on top of it. Some of the men were clearly drunk as I could smell the alcohol when they came up to me and tried to get me to join in. I declined and carried on filming which was much to some of their delights as they danced in front of me! Some of the children asked me where I was from and one even asked me if I was Hindi! It was quite a sight to see as they danced along the road stopping at odd intervals and other people, well actually only males joined in with the dancing.
Yesterday I went to the school just up the road to have lunch with the teachers. Originally we were going out but some of them were ill so the trip was cancelled. I went with Kumar to the sweet shop as I just wanted to say thank you and when we got there oh no it was closed.
Actually it was not closed they were cleaning which is quite refreshing to see here at times, but luckily the van arrived with freshly made Indian sweets. I wanted the non milk kind as they last for longer and with Kumar's help we tried a few. I settled on just one type as they were not too sweet. They were triangular with silver paper that you can eat, I think it may be real silver! I also bought a box for Kumar's mum to say thank you for the special Ganesha sweets she had made for us. They looked like mini Cornish pasties and went rather well with a cup of tea!
I didn't realise but the lunch was all organised for me! We ate and then some of the teachers danced and made me join in. It was such good fun and then they gave me a vase, picture and card and inside each of the teachers had written me a little letter. Honestly I was so taken aback, I never expected it and even the chap who set up the charity that funds the schools said he had no idea about the gifts!
Some of the teachers talked about their life stories. One had lost her parents when she was a girl at a train station and was taken to an orphanage to live, another with two very young children had split up with her abusive husband, another who has a mother-in law who does not speak to her because she works and the stories continued. It really makes what they are doing quite an achievement and I am really quite honored to have met and worked with them.
I had a bit of a bitter taste in mouth about some of the Indian people here but this certainly sweetened it. This was partly because the other day when I was going out on one of my little Whitefield adventures, a lady had just driven in and she had shopping in the back of the car. She literally barked at these two people who work I guess as kind of cleaners here to come and help her.
I did not understand what she was saying but I could see by her gestures what she wanted. I did not like her tone one bit and I wanted to say okay you might be in a higher caste and have more money but please they are human beings and deserve to be treated with dignity and respect. I think I may have felt a little protective because the lady who had been barked at smiles at me every day that I have seen her here or waves. We don't talk but her smiles and waves have been so refreshing and warm and kind in an environment that has sometimes felt rather unwelcoming. It's funny how such simple gestures can mean so much
I think going into the schools and working with the children and the teachers has maybe given me the wealthiest experience of India. I could have come as a tourist and just been driven around and visited the temples and the malls but I am so glad that I got involved. I don't think I would have gone to the slum areas and I think you need to see this even if it is challenging and at times upsetting as well as all of the amazing things like the Taj Mahal and go to the nice restaurants with views over the city.
Tomorrow I fly to Dubai for a few days and then back to the UK on Saturday. I am not quite sure when I will finish blogging. Maybe this will be it, let's wait and see....!
Saturday, September 18, 2010
Day 76-Saturday 18th September 2010
Yes, its a bit of a random image and yes it's on its side but just thought I'd do a quick blog not about the holiday but just about the past few days which have been a bit random!
Yesterday I walked up one of the backstreets not far from where we live and found this kind if disused temple. It's all locked up and looks like no one has used it for a while. I also found the spot that you can see from our apartment. People live there in what looks like a bit of an over grown field around the edges and then these little huts. Sometimes there is a cow and sometimes you can see children playing cricket. I was hoping they might be there because generally the children I have met here have been really friendly when I have been out and about.
Anyway all of this is a bit of the beaten track so did not hang around for too long. Then there were the dogs again, different from last time but they still decided to follow me back up to Whitefield Main Road! Also managed to get a picture of a chap having a pee in the street although he is bending down so it looks more like he could be praying. It's been quite a task to get this as it's not really the type of thing you want to be caught doing but just needed it because its kind of been part of the visuals everyday here and I guess the smells too! A camera with a better zoom is maybe what I need.
Oh and last night MT and Detlef actually finished work at a time when we could all go for dinner. We went to Jalsa where the staff are all dressed up in traditional Indian attire with these colourful hats. We got to sit right in the middle this time which was neat because its got all of this sparkly decor and alcoves to admire. Plus it was right next to the screen where they show clips from old Bollywood movies. I still maintain that the women in these films are far more attractive than the men. They seem to be a little podgy but apparently that's a sign of wealth and status here!
There was also a birthday party going on so it wa quite lively! It seems that when you have a birthday cake here it is smeared all over your face! Saw it last night and its not the first time and then some of it is fed to you by hand. It seems a bit of a waste of cake to me given that they all seem to look so beautiful and yummy when I have seen them in the bakeries.
It's Saturday and MT has gone to work, now there's a surprise! So I have been to heave my eyebrows threaded which I would like to say if you're dark like me is much better than waxing or just tweezering. I figured here is a good place to have it done given how dark some of the women are here. The beautician told me that it was unusual to have European woman with hair like Indian woman!
Next stop was the tailors. I had seen some material in there a few weeks back when I went with Muhan to get her a kurta and some slawars made. Its where I went before just in Whitefiled, literally 5 minutes away. Oh and there were 3 cows today! Maybe having a lazy Saturday. Anyway, I had my fingers crossed this pink and yellow material would still be there and it was-hooray! I said I needed it to be made by Wednesday and they told me one month! I was like oh no! I told them I was leaving on Wednesday and the tailor told me okay, Wednesday evening. We eventually settled on mid day-phew!
Okay so he measured me and luckily there was a girl in the shop wearing salwars and a kurta kind of in the style I wanted. Not too baggy salwars and a kurta above the knees so it can be worn with leggings or skinny jeans. Then we had a bit of an issue with the front V. I wanted the same depth as the top I was wearing which is about 7inch but the tailor told me no, too much!. I think what he meant was no too much cleavage but honestly today's top is really not low cut. We have gone for 6 as a compromise. This time the kurta is going to be lined unlike the last. No idea if this is necessary but when in India!
Going out with the teachers on Monday. It's a 7am start. Not quite sure where we are going apart from Kumar is dropping me off somewhere in Kaminahalli to meet them all. I think we may be going towards Mysore so that will be a few hours drive. Really quite touched they called to ask me. It will be a nice way to end my time here!:)
Friday, September 17, 2010
Day 75-Friday 17th September 2010
So back to Havelock. Oh my gosh did it rain or what on the Thursday but nevertheless we decided to venture out. We could have borrowed an umbrella but by the time we got to reception we were soaked anyway so we continued to the beach. People must have thought we were real weirdos half dressed and half in our swim wear going off to the beach in the monsoon rain.
I wish I had taken my camera as we ended up at the Blue Lagoon. The sea was really quite strong. Every few minutes there was a moment of calm and then whoosh about a series of nine big waves that came right up to the top of the beach.
To get to the Blue Lagoon meant a little clamber over some rocks. MT told me to be careful and yes I went for my second fall of the holiday right on my back. I think I bruised like my tail bone if that's what you call the base of your spines as its still twinging a bit now. Glad there was no one else around to see my clown act!
Walking in the pouring rain when its warm is a bit odd because I usually associate rain with cold, well that's my experience of it. Also odd, was this little spot we found slightly back from the beach where it looked like there had been some kind of radio transmitter and some equipment. It was as if some one had been doing a science/research project. It was like it had been abandoned, as if someone had left in a hurry. They had cleverly used a fallen tree as a sort of ledge for their workstation too. Oh and there was an abandoned flip flop I guess it could have been a man flop.
The Blue Lagoon was sooo blue. It really was like something you see in a film and I was still waiting for a dinosaur to appear from the Jurassic Park jungle!!! You've got this amazing beach, with no one on it, then this blue lagoon, the monsoon rain and then this lush green jungle/forest with mile high trees. Really quite amazing! And my what a contrast to life in Bangalore!
I have been really rather lucky to see some amazing sites that I never thought I would. The Pyramids. the Taj Mahal, the Kremlin, Table Mountain, the Colosseum, the Statue of Liberty. MT asked me which one I thought was the most amazing and its so hard to choose, I don't think I can and I am not sure I should. I think I would like to see the Great Wall of China now especially having met Muhan here.
I read a book while I was away called Vagabonding. It really is rather good at putting into very practical terms that even if you have a mortgage and a family you can go travelling. There's a section however all about tourists which slightly annoyed me because I am a tourist and I like to think I have a little bit of cultural interest when I go to places. The author seemed to say that tourists just go to see the things they think they should see but when you have only got a short space of time you wouldn't go to Moscow and not visit the Kremlin or go to Paris and not see the Eiffel Tower, unless you had maybe already been there.
I understand the author is saying at least I think he is saying, that you should go and absorb the realness of a place but I don't think its fair to be critical of all tourists. Of course you will find the odd one or two that want to see the Pyramids and then go to an unnamed fast food joint beginning with M but each to their own and I don't think the author should have been quite so critical. Apart from that it's a really inspiring book and if you have ever had an inkling to want to go travelling but don't think you can because of responsibilities this may well change your mind!
Right slightly off piste there so back on now!
As the waves sucked back into the sea you could see the ledge where the lagoon deepened and became a lagoon. Washed up onto the shore was also lots of coral and sponge. I felt a bit like a kid in a sweetshop because they are the kind of things you read about or see at the science museum and to see them in their natural environment was just neat! There were shells too which I would have loved to have collected but we were told that we could not take them from the island.
Incidentally, when we were at the airport flying from back from Port Blair to Chennai there was a chap going through security with a whole carrier bag full of shells and coral and a knife! Everything he had was catalogued by hand and then I think he was fined. Didn't like to stare too much as I was actually trying to avoid a bunch of children taking our photos. It had just begun with one boy and then others seemed to follow suit. Its really quite embarrassing but I guess they are just interested because we are different to them.
Coming back to the resort we were a little more careful on the rocks not to slip and sort of weaved in and out on the sandy bits. We did take time to watch the crabs and little fish in the rock pools. Crabs are so funny the way the move sideways. Why do they do that? The rain was beginning to lighten and the sun just popped its head through the clouds. This did not last for long! By the time we got back to the hut yes you guessed it, rain!!
You know when you are at school and in Geography and you learn about tropical forests and the different layers of a rain forest and its hard to kind of get what its really like, well this was it, the Geography lesson came to life! I sort of looked up and was like oh yes that's what old lama man meant! That's what we used to call the teacher and you can probably guess why!!
We had a late lunch, at least I think we did but all I can remember about it is that I wanted dessert and so asked the chap if could recommend something and he said the cheesecake. Oh dear, it was not nice and I was so looking forward to it.
Never mind, the fact that Rajan the Elephant appeared at about the same time soon made up for my disappointment. Most of the time he wonders around the forest, sometimes he goes for a swim or gives rides but I think he's in his fifties now. When we saw him he was in a clearing in the forest and I was a bit upset to see he was attached to a tree by a chain around his ankle. However I do think this is just when he is at the resort which doesn't seem to be that often given that this was the only afternoon that we saw him. That now makes both an Indian and African Elephant I have seen.
Still waiting to see a wild cat although I did not expect to see one on Havelock! You wouldn't believe how much time I spent with some friends in South Africa one holiday in a reserve chasing the lion, not right on its tail but we would ask the ranger where we would find the pride, drive to the spot as fast as was possible and without knocking over a rhino en route and then they would be gone! It became a bit of a joke by the end of it all!
Just had a quick scan and I think I may well need to do another blog to finish the holiday. Its time for a cup of tea too. Had to buy a new kettle yesterday as I blew the fuse on the other one along with causing the power cut-whoops!! At first I just thought it was part of the daily series of power cuts but after two hours I was like no, something else is up! Went to the office and then they called an electrician. The new kettle sits on the hob so when the power goes today it will not be my fault!
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Day 73-Wednesday 15th September 2010
It's the final countdown, well one week to go! That will make my stay in India 80 days.
In all honesty, I will be relieved to go. It has been quite some experience-challenging, enlightening, amazing, saddening, uplifting but still the best comparison I think is that I feel like Alice in Wonderland!
So back to the holiday at Havelock. I think that's where I last left off. Tuesday morning the driver picked us up to go snorkeling on Elephant Beach. And before you say or think did it have elephants, no! To be honest we did not know exactly where we were going. It really could have been anywhere. The driver however dropped us off at beach number 2 as all of the beaches on Havelock have a number and told us he would collect us at 2pm.
We were met by two chaps and then waded out to a boat, got on and off we went. Oh, in between wading out to the boat and getting on I did manage to fall over but miraculously saved my bag with camera inside from getting wet! I did feel like a real idiot though!
We could have been taken to pirates for all we knew and I have to say as we approached this large boat in what seemed like the middle of the sea I felt rather anxious. I did not say anything to MT as I know he is not a huge fan of the water and did not want to make him feel uncomfortable. Fortunately we sailed past the pirate ship and I felt relieved. It was beautiful to be out on the sea with the sun shining and to see the islands lush and green even if the boat we were in did seem to be leaking rather a lot One of the crew, there was only two of them so not sure if that counts as crew, seemed to be constanly decanting water from the boat using a red plastic bucket.
So we docked at the beach and as we did you could see the effects of the Tsunami. There were many large fallen trees but they were all of the most fascinating twisted shapes. We were handed two masks and snorkels. I was glad that I had my swimming costume on as there was nowhere discreet to change and I am not sure if it is appropriate for a lady to change on a beach here. I have not seen one female in a swimming costume even at the pool at our apartments. They swim in their clothes or some in their saris!
The coral and fish wre amazing to see. The further you swam out the bigger and more colorful the fish became and the coral was also pink and purple in places. There was a huge shoal of tiny fish that swam by and for a moment I could not see and panicked a little and at that point I gulped rather a large amount of slat water! Considering MT is not a huge water fan I was really quite impressed with how far he swam out but the fish and coral wre not to be missed. I was quite taken with the sky blue and orange fish about 20cm in length so not huge but just really eye catching. Would make a nice colour combination for a sari.
After about half an hour went back and dried off on the beach. While we were there three chaps appeared along the beach.They had come part way on their bikes and then trekked through the forest. They were in the Indian army and this was their vacation. One of them wore a rather colorful and flowery shirt. He was a little camp and when I said that we lived in LA his eyes sort of lit up!
They were concerned about getting back so we said they could come back with us in the boat. While they snorkeled we went for a walk up the beach. It was so weird that no one wast there. All of the beaches I have been to in the past in the summer have been packed with holiday makers! It looked like the beach was moving in parts because of the crabs in their shells! We only went as far as a rather large tree that had fallen over. We decided that we could not get over it so walked back to find out when we wre leaving.
The sky had become a little dark so we knew that the rain would be coming and didn't much fancy being stuck on the beach.
The three chaps dried off and we all boarded the boat. Another Indian couple had arrived. The lady was dressed in a sari and she looked amazing but it was clearly a struggle for her to get back on their boat. She had to climb onto our boat first as we were nearer the beach and then across. They too wanted to leave as the rain had started.
I wanted to ask the couple if they were on honeymoon, was their marriage one of love or arranged? Just not really practical at that point! There have been so many times when I have wanted to ask people some of these questions but its just not really done even though people if they get the chance are really quite inquisitive about you.
I know it may just be the norm to wear your sari to the beach and in the water and it certainly seems that way but I cannot quite understand why you would wear something that seems so impractical to go the beach. I guess its just about keeping an open mind on things like this and just appreciating that in different cultures people do things differently.
So we chugged back to beach number 2 on our little boat now with the 7 of us! The three chaps each paid Rs200 which is why when we were asked for Rs2000 we only gave Rs1000. This was all just before getting the ferry back to Port Blair on the last day.The driver tols us that the snorkeling was not part of the package which we had not known. Also the driver never came to pick us up from snorkeling and he was half an hour lat to pick us up to catch the ferry back to Port Blair. We even had to buy new ferry tickets so if we had given him the Rs200 for the snorkelling we would have been stuck on Havelock for another night as this was the last ferry.
Okay so back to the Tuesday. We waited for the driver for maybe 20 minutes but the rain kicked in again. We flagged down an auto rickshaw on the road and asked him to take us to beach number 7 which is where we were staying. You are supposed to negotiate a price before you take the auto rickshaw but we did not and I was little concerned. It was only RS200, a bargain for getting to see some of the island from different perspective i thought. I have to say as we zoomed along the one track road I was a little concerned for our safety and whether we would make it up the hill. I felt like we might roll backwards! The driver was really quite sweet and he let me take a picture of him too!
The island was so amazingly lush and green, I guess it would be with all of the rain. It reminded me of the jungle in Jurassic Park and at any minute a T Rex could pop his head up! Also, is it true that dinosaurs can have a brain in their stomach? We walked back through the forest to our resort. We figured the auto rickshaw might get stuck as the ground was rather wet and muddy.
We went for a late lunch and had a bottle of wine.The Indian wine here is really rather good. There's a merlot I have become quite partial to. We both had some local fish cooked massala style which was rather yum. You know its funny because I had chicken once while we were away and I am not sure I enjoyed it. Not because it wasn't nice and clearly all of the chickens on the island are free range but maybe because we have not really eaten meat you just get used to that.
A few weeks ago, pardon the expression, I could have killed for a bacon sandwich and now I am not so sure. We'll see next week when back in the UK. What I would like however is some properly cold milk on my cereal and not to have to boil the water to wash the fruit and veg before we eat it! Oh and some food that has not past its sell by date in the supermarket.
It rained again late afternoon into the evening but it was quite nice to be tucked up in outr little hut in the jungle. Still no sign of the elephant at this point either but we were promised Rajan would be there tomorrow! Let see shall we!
Monday, September 13, 2010
Day 71-Monday 13th September 2010
Yes we are safely back from the Andaman and Nicobar Islands in the Bay of Bengal and my it was quite some adventure!
Not quite sure how to go about blogging the trip as blogs that are too long tend to be rather boring so I might try to do it briefly all in one. However, if someone would like to offer me a publishing contract then I shall of course write in more detail.
So here it goes. Saturday night we got a phone call from my friend the travel agent to say out first flight had been canceled. My jaw dropped to the ground at that point especially after the credit card payment fiasco. He told me that we had been booked on an earlier flight and needed to get to the airport two hours before departure. That meant leaving here at 3:30 am and MT was not even home from work having been there for 36 hours!
MT appeared at midnight so there wasn't much point going to bed. I think I dozed a bit because my alarm went off and I sort of jumped up. Luckily I had left my travel clothes out and packed for both myself and MT. MT was asleep on the sofa with Frasier still playing on his lap top. He is a bit of sucker for cheesy American sitcoms, Friends included!!
On the way to the airport we needed to to stop to get cash as there are a limited supply of ATMs on the island and not everywhere accepts a card. It was dark with no one around apart from a few stray dogs and a dozing security card at the ATM machine. It was quite eery given that Whitefield in the day just buzzes and its complete sensory overload!!
When we got the airport we spoke to the airline we were supposed to now be flying with but they had no record of our names. Luckily I had asked the travel argent for a contact at the airport and a number so I called them and a Duty Manager came and met us. She got us checked in and we had about 5 minutes to spare before the plane departed.
We took one of those airport buses to the plane, it was a push to get on and then everyone just sort of charged off like bears going for honey. Its not like the plane was going to leave without them or they had not been allocated seats like on some of the budget airlines! It was a weeny plane with propellers and took off on time for our first leg of the journey to Chennai. It was dark when we boarded but two hours later we landed in Chennai, formerly Madras on the east coast of India the sun had come out and it was light.
We had to collect out luggage as we were switching airlines and as seems to be the protocol here its every Indian for themselves! Honestly there seems to be very little notion of how to que or to be respectful of each other. I have no idea if this is to do with there being so many people here so its each for their own or maybe the caste system.
And in all honesty it seems to be the wealthier Indian people who seem to be the worst. Of the ones we encountered while away they were really quite rude and aloof. Again maybe its to do with the caste system but they certainly seemed to have some kind of superiority complex.
Going through security again at Chennai I had a small bottle of water in my bag given to me on the first plane which they made me drink! I know I shouldn't have but I drank it all and just put the empty bottle down in front of the security man. I think I was just feeling a bit annoyed and I shouldn't have done that because it was quite rude but I think it made me feel better.
Standing in the ladies line for security though gave me a good opportunity to have a really close look at some of the intricate work on the saris. Many of the ladies seemed to be wearing their most amazing and dazzling saris to travel in which kind of surprised me because I would save my best for when I got to my destination and travelled in one that I would not get upset about if something happened to it. Again I am not sure but maybe its to do with a status thing.
There was also a lady in front of me in a sort of mulberry coloured sari embroidered with gold. She had flowers in her hair and as the fan blew the smell of jasmine wafted through the air, it was really quite lovely given that everywhere else in the airport smelled a but unsanitary.
Oh and then there were the toilets-yuck! EWC, that stands for European water closet and IWC that's Indian water closet which is a hole in the ground. Anyway which ever one I went to at all of the airports they I don't even like to think about what I was treading in. Most of them were leaking some liquid and required me to roll up my trousers!
Luckily I had my trusted M&S hand sanitizer handy! Although I have noticed that when I use it people watch me to see what I am doing. I feel a little awkward as if I am saying yes your country is dirty and look what I am having to do!
We were lucky at Chennai that the chap at the check in desk bumped us up to First class which was a welcome relief given that so far our start to the holiday had been a little stressful! I would just like to point out though that First class and 5 Star in India do not necessarily equate to what we might think of as First and 5.
We reached Port Blair, that 's the capital of the Andaman islands and it was just so refreshing to be out of Bangalore. The sun was shining , there was no dust and there were very few cars tooting their horns.
When we entered the airport we had to fill out permit forms which was all quite straight forward expect for the fact that some one else there at the same time was called MIchael and so my Michael, referred to as MT on the blog was given the wrong passport.
Just before we exited the airport a chap from the permit desk ran after us to correct the situation-phew. Incidentally the other Michael was staying at the same hotel in Port Blair as us and resort at Barefoot. I would also like to point out that one morning walking to the beach the other Michael was walking in front of us and he let rip the biggest love puffs as our sister refers to them that you could imagine.
Honestly we were gob smacked and I had to hold my breath not from the smell but for fear of laughing too loudly! He actually turned round and said whoops I didn't realise any one was there. Really if you are going to have wind like that then please either check your surroundings for public or stay at home!!!
We had a wicked sea front room with a balcony over looking the sea but boy it was humid!! Also Rs20 notes have a picture of Port Blair on them and the light house we could see form the balcony.
We went to the beach in the afternoon and just walked along the beach and out to the rocks. There were quite a few people on the beach but no one like us, by that I mean we were the only non Indian folk if that's okay to say?
Then we went to the cellular jail built by the British during the Raj . From what I could see they were political prisoners and freedom fighters held here. I do find it odd that we would imprison people just because of their thoughts and idea and wanting to be free from the rule of some foreigner! Its things like this jail and aspects of the Raj in India that make me unproud if that word exists to be British. It kind of reminded me of Robin Island in South Africa.
When we got back we both just had a mocktail, yes no alcohol and crashed for the night! Check out the next morning was at 7;30 am so we knew we had to be up and out and besides we had a 54km ride across the sea to Havelock!
Oh I do like the sea!!!!
Friday, September 3, 2010
Day 61-Friday 3rd September 2010
Oh my, its September already! So this week, where shall I begin? Well Monday I cannot actually remember which is really bad!
Oh yes I can. I went to the dentist and then later I was browsing Craig's List LA for jobs and came across one at the school I had volunteered at. I mailed the Director of the school with my CV and asked if he might consider me. Anyway long story short I think I have got the job and he will keep it open for me until I get back-hooray!
Of course I still have to get my work authorisation but fingers crossed that should not be a problem. Until then I will just have to "volunteer" but I have been doing that for a year now so a while longer won't hurt me! If I'm honest I thought I might not get a job especially given the current job climate in the States.
Next stop is actually the Andaman and Nicobar Islands on Sunday. MTs parents very kindly gave us some money to go on a holiday/honeymoon. The islands are located in the Bay of Bengal. Its a flight from here to Chennai, formerly know as Madras, then a flight to Port Blair which is the capital of the Nicobar islands and then a boat to Havelock island. Its supposed to be an eco friendly island, there is swimming elephant, a history of cannibalism, no Internet and it may well rain as its monsoon season. Oh well it well it will be soooo nice to escape!
Went to buy some magazines and a book to take with me at Hypercity today. When I got my reading items including Vogue India plus the few food items to the check out I was told I had to pay upstairs! I could not be bothered as I had already wondered around for ages trying to find some goggles and jelly shoes! I just paid for the water, pasta, pesto and bananas and went to meet Kumar to come home. I also bought him some short bread biscuits to say thank you for taking me to the doctor in the middle of the night! They were the closest in date British product I could find!
Its funny because the store does have some Waitrose products as their luxury brand but they are the Waitose essentials range which are the equivalent to Sainsbury's basics. The first time I saw them I laughed because the Waitrose HQ is actually located in our home town! It was also just weird because I never expected to see Waitrose products in India! Expect the unexpected here and be prepared to be challenged!
Yes I had to go to the doctor in the middle of the night on Tuesday. I got home and had a tingling of a headache that got progressively worse until I had to get into bed. At that point I seemed to have some kind of a fever and felt sick. I thought I could sleep it off but after a few hours I wanted to chop my head off the pain was so much. I cannot remember feeling so ill or being so scared since being taken to hospital for suspected meningitis. That was in my first term at university.
MT called me and said Kumar knew a 24 hour doctor's surgery and could take us. He was working late but I had called him to say you need to come home. I think I was in quite a state! I couldn't really lift my head or look up and MT told me to wear my sunglasses but I didn't want to, I should have because the light did hurt my eyes! When we got to the doctor they took some details whilst I slumped over the receptionist's desk. In the doctor's room they took my temperature but the first time I just could not hold the thermometer under my tongue. I felt silly, little kids can manage that!
The doctor told us that it was a local virus I had picked up. He wrote us a prescription and we went to the 24 hour pharmacy. They did not have the drugs he had prescribed so were given an alternative and MT insisted we go back to the doctor to check they were okay, I just wanted to go home. I felt horrendous but by then luckily Rory, our sister's boyfriend who has just completed his pharmacy degree had recommended some super strong pain killer to take to India which I had taken about midnight and seemed to have kicked.
We were told to go back in 48 hours for tests if things had not improved but they have-big phew! Just a good job I had not decided on going to China with Muhan on Wednesday!
Tuesday I met Muhan at UB City to go for lunch. UB City is kind of this upmarket mall with shops and eateries. We went for Japanese and I think I ate more meat in one sitting than I have in my whole time in India. I also had a glass of wine which I thought cause my headache but was later to discover I had picked up some local virus!
After lunch we went to this kind of high end sari shop. And oh my gosh the clothes were beautiful. Some of them were a modern twist on saris, still traditional Indian clothing for women but sort of modern. Some of the skirts were so heavy that I am sure you would need lessons not to topple over in them. The colours and stitching and jewels on them were dazzling and then there were the jewel encrusted and sparkly sandals!! Now I am not a fan of toes but I think I may well be prepared to expose them for a pair of these blingers!!!
Wednesday was a bit sad because Muhan left for China. I felt bad that I was ill because I wanted to go out with her. She came and knocked on my door as her husband had told her I was poorly. MT must have told him at work. Then she brought me some kiwis and water. In the evening Muhan came round to say goodbye. They were also going to dinner at Herbs and Spices and asked me to go but I just couldn't face it. I gave Muhan one of my scarves to take to China and said that if I could not go then one of my scarves could!!
Yesterday I did not venture very far although not going far here feels like a whole adventure in itself with all of the sights and sounds and smells. I decided to go the other local supermarket. This one takes you into the hustle and bustle of Whitefield and past the cows. I have not seen the regal one for a while actually, I hope its okay.
The smell of fresh cow plop did make me have a little heave and I just sort of scurried past the spot. Oh and there was a gust of wind caused by a lorry that blew up a whirlwind of dust from the street into my eyes, as well as feeling like it had burst my eardrums with the sound of its horn. Almost wished I had stayed at home! Did not want to get cabin fever so forced myself to go out. The lorry however was quite beautifully decorated with little panels of paintings, I think they may have been Hindu deities and symbols. Lots of yellows and oranges.
In the supermarket I bumped into a chap who works in the rug and pashmina shop we had gone to earlier in the week and I had been to once before. He seems a nice enough chap but it was a bit embarrassing because I knew I looked crap, I was not feeling well and he seemed to want to have a conversation. See they know that I go to a school near them because I have to walk past the shop and its like they know me. He's the same chap who had asked me about our marriage, if it was love or arranged and also the chap marrying his second cousin! I think I mentioned this in an earlier blog.
It may well be a week before I blog again so I will let you know how the holiday goes. Hopefully we will not get eaten by sharks, or cannibals, there will not be a tsunami , the elephant will swim and the sun will shine!!!:)
Monday, August 30, 2010
Day 57-Monday 30th September 2010
Today I went to the local dentist for a check up and to have my teeth cleaned.I have not got the world's most perfect teeth but I try to keep them in good condition. I got a ride part way with MT and Kumar. He dropped me right at the stinky, putrid smelling spot and it made me gag as I got out. Luckily the road was fairly clear and I only had to dodge one auto rickshaw to cross the road!
I have been meaning to go to the dentist too as I had been worried about a small lump I had on the roof of mouth. I had kind of convinced myself that it was mouth cancer but the dentist said it was nothing and had probably always been there-phew! He offered to laser it off but I was like no thank you. I thought whilst it seems very clean and proper I am not taking any chances!
When all was cleaned I was chatting to the dentist's wife. I asked her what people do here if they cannot afford to pay for treatment. She told me that people walk for miles from the villages to the surgery and that they treat them for free. She told me that they charge paying patients a little more so that they can offer this service. Also people here in India don't usually suffer from rotting teeth because they do not consume a lot of fizzy pop and sweets like we tend to. Gum disease is more of an issue here.
I also chatted to a man from Delhi in the waiting room. He seems to think that everything is really corrupt here from the top down. His wife and family are still in Delhi but he is planning on moving them here in the not to distant future. He looked like he had real bad tooth ache so I said it was okay not to chat but he seemed to want to so I just went with it.
I can't quite remember where i got up to with my blog so if I repeat myself you can let me know in the comments section at the bottom or just skim read. I have once again begun to enjoy my time here. I think its kind of the relief that I have got a ticket out of here. I feel a bit bad because MT will still be here and he is working super hard, in fact he is not home form work yet and its not far off midnight! And we have just had a power cut so I am actually sitting in darkness. It happens even more frequently when it rains.
Muhan will be leaving on Wednesday to go back to China. I am quite sad that she is going but am ever so glad to have met her. Its been fun exploring with here and a really nice to have her about when its sometimes been a bit lonely and felt a bit isolated here. This evening we went to a shop where you can buy all sorts of Indian goodies from rugs to pashminas and multi colored elephants. I did not buy anything but Olivier bought Muhan two rings which are rather lovely. One is particularly sparkly and nice, its a sapphire from Kashmir surrounded by diamonds.
A few of the salespeople asked me about where I came from and about my husband. Both asked if it was an arranged or love marriage. I told them that we had only been married for a few months but we had been dating since we were sixteen! One of them told me that he was engaged to his second cousin which seems to be quite normal here. He told me that he really likes his wife to be but he gave me the impression that he did not love her, I could be mistaken.
Stepping back in time now. On Saturday I went to do a workshop with some of the teachers from the schools I have been going to. It was in Kaminahalli which is about an hours drive away. I quite like the drive there as you get to go through what I would describe as real India. I still really struggle though when beggars come and knock on the car windows.
I think the workshop went quite well. The teachers seemed to enjoy doing the presentations on various newspaper articles and pictures. I had asked them to do this in hope of improving their English speaking skills and confidence. We also talked about different teaching methods and target setting for the students.
At the end they gave me a card to say thank you and a rose. I was really quite touched. I was also so glad to go because I still had a rotten cold and felt embarrassed about blowing my nose too! And once more some of the teachers were wearing the most amazing saris. I sometimes feel quite a scruff next to them although they seem to like my scarf which was made in India but I actually bought in LA!!!
Spoke to Mum earlier and it was all a little hectic as I have booked to fly to Dubai and then onto London before going back to LA. I had kind of booked on the basis of her holiday plans so I would see her before I left but the holiday plans kind of changed, well the dates shifted. I think it will all be okay. They can still go away as planned and I can see mum for a few days when they get back.
There is also our Grandma's ashes to collect. She died last December around Christmas time so I made an unplanned trip back to he UK. I knew this was on the agenda, the ashes that is, but had sort of forgotten. But I do need some of Grandma as I may have her made into a diamond! Yes some may think grim but I think she would quite like to be something sparkly. There is all of our stuff in storage to sort through too. Its been nearly a year now since we packed it up so it really is time to get ourselves organized!
I think I have caught up now with the last few days or at least with a few snippets. I need to find a picture now. It may be just a random one as I have not uploaded/downloaded whatever it is you do to the pictures from your camera for the last few days! Maybe an animal? I think I have a picture of a cow outside of the school.
Oh and Liz has had a baby boy! Joseph he's called and he has the most adorable looking fluffy black hair!!
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Day 53-Thursday 26th August 2010
Yes this is rather sad but I just read on the BBC entertainment page the last ever contestant of Big Brother has just won! I am guessing that was maybe at the weekend but have kind of lost track of the days! I did think it was refreshing that she is giving maybe 20 percent of her winnings to a cancer charity. Some may say she should give it all but some is better than none.
Just booked my ticket to Dubai to visit a good friend on route back to the UK. We actually met each other at University when we were working in the Admissions office so that's 10 years ago! We always seem to miss each other back in the UK. I think it may be 5 years since we have seen each other, I think possibly before we moved to Belgium! It was in London and we went for sausage and mash which is funny because I will come to that again later in this blog.
Today was Yoga day number 2 but I have woken up with a cold and a runny nose-just great! So I have decided that not only could I not manage the positions without having to blow my nose but that the other ladies would not appreciated me sneezing in the middle of an om! I guess I could try a few moves/ positions at home with my new Yoga mat that I have not opened. I thought buying one would encourage me to go. However, I did make it to the gym on Tuesday, did 40 mins on the tread mill and it did make me feel better-hooray!
So its a bit gloomy here again today in terms of the weather. Kind of overcast and almost a dampness in the air. The minaret should sound in an hour or so. You can hear it calling at certain points of the day. It calls at about 4:30 am, that's when I seem to wake up. Its quite atmospheric in the evening too as it starts to get dark. Its like this loud but muffled sound of deep singing through a poor quality speaker and it transcends through the air as the light begins to fade.
Just need to go and blow my nose and then I 'll be back.......
Muhan and I went to find the dentist yesterday but I had got the directions wrong. Anyway, it was quite exciting venturing up the the wrong road as I got to see shops and stores I had not seen before.
There were shops selling materials to make saris, chickens sitting in their squashed up cages, mutton freshly killed and hanging up to be purchased, coconut sellers, jewellery shops, auto rickshaws, motorbikes, horns beeping, rubbish that had been dumped in tidy piles of mess and lots of people waling up and down the road and of course the staring! Rose just told me to pretend we are celebrities to deal with the looks!
It was good to go out because I feel like a bit of a hermit at times. I think its maybe still the knock on effect of the dog and the bag incident plus the weather has been rather pants. Its not quite so intimidating walking about with Muhan because there are two of you. Its a bit more of an exciting adventure and there is time to look and appreciate your surroundings rather than just hurry along to where you want to get to.
We failed in the attempt to find the dentist but Kumar did take us later and show us and he laughed that we could not find it. We had gone down the road with the bakery on the corner that sells yummy looking Indian sweets rather than the next road. I think I have a picture of it so will try and find for today's visual installment.
I did think that we might get soaked as one of the motorbikes went by and drove through the muddy puddles left after the rain in the early hours of the morning. But we were fine and just ended up with wet, dirty feet again. Also I had just washed my shoes, well they are kind of like partly open toe trainers in the washing machine and put them on clean. Should have known they would not stay clean for long!
We went to a little local cafe but could not decide on anything. I had ordered some tea and humous, slightly odd combination I know but some would say I am a little odd at times! I felt bad canceling my order and also bad because there never seems to be any one in there. I think its just in the wrong spot. It's off Whitefield Main Road as you go down to the post office, that's how I discovered it. I am not sure its a hot spot for the locals especially too when its just opposite the hut where people line up for their rice rations.
We called Kumar to see if he was around to take us to the mall as there is a whole floor of different eateries. Muhan seems to have a thing for dosas at the moment which are kind of like pancakes I guess. There are two types, papery thin ones and then ones that are a bit more like American style pancakes. We had the paper thin Massala dosa . We could not eat with our hands because I had forgotten the anti bacterial hand wash and I would see my hands were grubby.
It was odd not to use our hands to eat, well the right one, and to be using a fork and spoon to eat, there were not any knives! Is that strange that now there are some things I just expect to use my hand to eat? My mum always said that she had difficulty getting me to actually use cutlery to eat when I was a child. Should have just brought me up in India or told people that she was embracing Indian culture! I am guessing it was probably rather embarrassing to have a child who insisted on using their hands to eat when out in public. I think she was worried what would happen when I started school and maybe made friends and was invited for tea at their houses! By tea I mean evening dinner here rather than a cup of tea.
Bought some courgettes and peppers in the supermarket to add to the rice for dinner. My rice making skills have actually improved and I am no longer cooking rice that is more akin to mashed potato than to rice! I did but some potatoes thinking I would make mashed potato and maybe sausages, comfort food I guess, but then I remembered MT is vegetarian and actually I don't think I have seen any sausages for sale here.
Oh and on the subject of meat, they are trying to make beef illegal here in Bangalore. I read it in the paper at the weekend. I am not sure how the law quite works here and I am not sure how it will take to be implemented. I wondered if It would start some kind of a black market. I think there are enough rich folks here who might still indulge. Would there be a meat police?
Lots of people have told us that it is all very corrupt here but that's here say rather than knowing for sure. There are lots of places that are corrupt, I mean we paid the police officer in Egypt to be allowed through the hole in the fence to ride a horse across the desert by the Pyramids! Gosh can we be had for that now?!
I just thought he was part of the organizers. Kind of a look out post to make sure that everything was okay with the horses and riders. I thought it was a little strange having to pay again but didn't question it, too excited about riding a horse to see the Pyramids. MT later told me the reality of the situation-sooo naive at times! And to be honest sometimes its better not to know.
Oh and this really did make me chuckle-when we went past a McDonald's the other day there was a cow stood right outside the entrance! Would have been a genius camera moment! You'll just have to picture it!
Monday, August 23, 2010
Day 50-Monday 23rd August 2010
Just been on FB to see if Liz's baby has arrived and he has not. Must be rather frustrating as I cannot imagine that however much you want to be a mum you would want to be pregnant for more than nine months. I would pop some extra strong India spices in the post but I think they would take two weeks to get to her by which time hopefully d day will have happened.
Friday was our brother's 30th! Yes the big three zero. Felt a little sad not to be celebrating in Brighton with him. Weird thing is though when back in LA I had thought that I would have left India by now and have gone to his party. Does this mean things are going well or have I just lost track of time?
So what's been going on for the last few days here? Well Mr T has been rather poorly and I know this for sure because he has not had a sick day in about three years. When he said on Thursday morning he was and could not go to work and he really did not look good, whiter than his usual shade of pale, I thought it must be bad.
Anyway, the doctor back in the States had given him some ultra strong anti biotic, cipro something which when researched via our good friend the www, can be use on patients exposed to anthrax!! It seems to have done the trick and to have blasted the bug away but has left MT wiped out. He should not have gone to work today but I know he has a lot on and a six month deadline here.
We actually stayed in a hotel on Saturday night. A bit frivolous especially in the context of where we are I know but I just though it would do MT some good. It was a beautiful hotel, and had a neat steam shower. Thought it might have got rid of the spots/pimples on my face but no. My skin I feel is destined to be manky for the rest of my time in India! The gardens at the hotel were beautiful and although it poured down with rain there were these tiny frogs about the size of a giant ant hopping around. Had to be careful not to tread on them! It really was nice to be away from the constant car tooting and the dust just for night and day.
Most days I go out and come home feeling dirty and my feet, oh dear! And goodness knows what I must have trod in-could be cow plop, could be dog plop, could be any number of waste products produced by both animal and human. My feet just seem to be dirty all the time. I have tried and tried to wash the apartment floors and sweep everyday but it is just a relentless task. I actually might give up because it seems futile apart from the fact that it is some exercise, well that's what I try to tell myself.
And on the subject of exercise, yes I did got to Yoga. It was nice, the other ladies seemed nice, maybe ten of us in all and I may well go back again this week but still think I would prefer to go to tap or swim or bop around to some music! Yoga is supposed to be good for you BP too and as mine has been known to be high I think I should maybe pursue it a few more times-maybe I will fall in love with it!
Also went to a wedding on Saturday. It was a Christian wedding. Of course it was amazing to see a wedding in India and Remya, the bride, looked absolutely stunning especially in her second sari. Not that she did not look stunning in the first which was white and looked like it may have been encrusted with swarovski crystals, its just the pink and gold of the material together with the gold bangles were just wow!!! I mean we were sat at the back of the hall and you could still see it.
We had decided that we would just go to the ceremony due to poorliness but ended up going to some of the reception. After the newly weds arrived at the reception which was maybe an hour after we arrived, there was the cutting of the cake, the whole family got up on the stage and various bits and pieces were read out about them. Then there was some lighting of candles, oh and there was a throne type thing for the bride and groom to sit on which did remind me a little of a Posh and Beck's type thing and I also thought it was a bit of a waste of time given that they had to keep standing up for various little ceremonial things and photos.
The hall also reminded me of a school assembly hall as the chairs were set up in lines facing the stage although it was decorated with pink and white giant ribbons.There were also huge bunches of flowers in pink and white too. It was all a bit pink and white and also reminded me of marshmallows!! I guess that's not a bad thing apart from when you eat a few too many and it makes you feel a bit sick!
We went to give the bride and groom, Robin and Remya, their gift but never got to see them because the line was about a mile and a half long of guests. Then one of MTs colleagues asked us to wait for some other colleagues so they could all go together. But after we had waited for them for an hour which was an hour after we had arrived, we gave our gift which was money as this is what we had been advised to one of MTs colleagues to give on our behalf. Just so you know we did put the money in a rather lovely blue handmade envelope with little red flowers. Oh but I forgot the sticker to seal it-woops! Just hope it stayed in the envelope.
I am not quite sure how to approach the wedding ceremony in describing it because I certainly do not want to sound like a I am mocking it but some of it was kind of comical. I also have no clue about the technical names for clothing or aspects of the ceremony so forgive me for not getting it right and of course as always leave your comments at the bottom of the blog. I am more than happy to be corrected or helped out. Also I think today's picture might help in explaining a few things I will attempt in writing.
Firstly, the ceremony seemed to be more about the group of religious men at the front of the church who were largely dressed in black habits/cassocks with beards and almost and I don't know if this is okay to say but looked Muslim, rather than the bride and groom. There was the main religious chap dressed in a rather nice gold and orange alb type thing with a hood. He held a gold staff, like the stick the Shepperd holds when herding the sheep except it was gold not wooden as I imagine it might be in real life.
He chanted and sang away sometimes facing the altar sometimes facing the couple who incidentally had to stand there for a good hour and a half. MT leaned over to me about half way through to ask if they were married yet and honestly I had no clue. There wasn't any ring giving or I do's, well there may have been but we would not have understood it. But I did understand amen which sounded like armein. I think the point at which they were married was when Remya had a sari put on her head and there seemed to be some placing of necklaces/chains around the bride and groom's necks
There was also the incense man who wafted incense around at the altar and then at the people sat in the pews at various points in the ceremony. He wafted it around in this round golden globe on a chain that also had tinkling bells which tinkled and then the electronic piano man came in with his little bit.
These electric piano interludes reminded me of the music that you get at a pantomime in between scenes. Here they seemed to signal a new reading or passage from the Bible or section of the ceremony. Oh yes, there were the compulsory power cuts throughout the ceremony as we so often get here in Bangalore. You'd have thought they could have sorted it out for a wedding and given the church electricity for the afternoon.
The main religious man who I have mentioned also had a large gold cross, yes as well as his gold staff, and at times would sort of wave it around at his helpers gathered around him, stop at one and them and then the chap he had stopped at would kiss the cross. It was like a fairy waving a magic wand around and then casting its spell. This seemed to happen many times and I have no idea what it was about but I did giggle, silently to myself of course. It reminded me of a scene in Shrek, don't know which one and Donkey is jumping up and down saying pick me pick me!!! Its like they all wanted to be chosen because their heads sort of followed the golden cross in anticipation of being the chosen one.
At the end of the ceremony we went down to the main church area. We had sat upstairs on the balcony which was neat because it meant we had a good view and there also were not as many the staring people around to stare at us. It happens a lot here and its making me a feel a little self conscious. I know we are different but I am not walking around in anything provocative, my shoulders, top half of my arms and legs to my ankles are covered and most of time I wear a scarf.
Sometimes I feel like saying to people and please excuse my language here, what's the f*****g problem! I wouldn't of course but if people want to stare couldn't they just give a little smile or gesture of friendliness. I like to look especially here but I like to think I am discreet or if they see me looking I smile.
Its also interesting here in terms of cultural differences in behavior. If you are introduced to some one they are really very lovely to you. If you are not introduced, people just stare and come across as being a little rude, sometimes more then a little rude. Even in the shops, I might have mentioned this, I have seen customers talking to the shop assistants in quite a derogatory way, they might as well snap their fingers at them like they are some kind of servant. I am not sure if this has anything to do with the caste system.
Best just finish the wedding as I feel I am going slightly away from this. So it was really neat to see a wedding here and very sweet of Robin and Remya to invite us. MT works with Remya here. Despite the missing shoes when we came out of the church as the neatly placed footwear seemed to have turned into what looked like a shoe jumble sale, we did find our shoes and I am glad we made it to see both the wedding and some of the reception. I have to say though I would love to go to a Hindu wedding here. We drove past the preparations for one today at a temple and it looked so stunning decorated with fresh flowers in a whole array of vibrant colors.
Been into one of the schools today-Carnation. Taught a lesson on numbers. I was trying to show the teachers they don't just have to do learning parrot style. Its okay to get the children to move, get them into groups and get everyone involved. I am not sure that they knew I was coming in as they looked a little surprised to see me. The kids though were great. I gave them their numbers , told them to keep it a secret and then they ordered themselves correctly. They also did little presentations about themselves, really quite cute. Oh and one boy decided to have lunch early in the form of his number card I had given him!
Think I have just about caught up with the last few days now and I think maybe its time to make plans to come home, although not quite sure where that is these days!:)
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Day 45-Wednesday 18th August 2010
Despite what people might think about loosing weight when coming to India I can say even with my constitution that I have found this not to be the case. Yes I have had some tummy disagreements but nothing that has caused any weight loss. In fact, I think I have put it on! I am a little disappointed with myself as I thought this might be the perfect opportunity to get super fit and healthy and even convert to being a vegetarian but I seem to have failed. I have got spots or pimples however you wish to refer to them-it's time for some action!
So, tomorrow I am going to a Yoga class, healthy body and mind and all that jazz! I can't say that I am a huge fan of it but here seems as good a place as any to give it another shot. The lady I spoke to on the phone seems super nice and the place is only a five minute walk away. I have not opted for the early bird session at 06h00 but for the slightly later class at 10h30.
Finally finished my book called Two States about a young Indian couple who fall in love at university. If you are planning on reading it maybe skip the next little bit.
The boy is from the North and the Girl is from the South so its about a clash of the families when they announce that they want to get married. It's quite a good way to explore the different cultures here and it its refreshing that it all ends well. There is one section when Krish and Ananya go to one of krish's cousins wedding and the wedding is put hold because the girl's family have not bought an expensive enough car for the groom. The girl's family have to dash about madly gathering all the gold they can from the guests as a sort of down payment.
Not sure if this does still happen, maybe it does in some families but the weddings here do seem to be super elaborate. I am also judging that by the amazingly beautiful wedding invitation that we received, well MT received at work. Its hand made paper in red with gold patterns, very beautiful and I have to say I did get cross with MT when he sat on it and squashed it!
The wedding is on Sunday so it will be fascinating to see. Not sure what to wear. If I go dressed like an Indian lady I think I will look silly, well feel uncomfortable. I think I may just do a fusion of east meets west and maybe wear my pink dress with some leggings and a pink duppata (scarf). I think that will work.
MT does not have a suit here but then he did buy his wedding suit on the day of our wedding in Las vegas! Oh and when we went to our friend's wedding in Egypt we also had to go to an Egyptian department store to buy something for him to wear. So why not throw an Indian one into the equation! Its a little stressful as you might imagine especially on the day you are getting married or attending a wedding but things always seems to work out and he always looks really quite nice! Why can't I do that?!
Ventured up Whitefield Road on Monday to the travel agent. It's the first time I have walked that way since the bag and dog incident last week but I can report I walked there and back with no problem and even negotiated two duppatas in the local shop for 200INR. One's the pink one I will wear to the wedding. Also walked past the spot that always smells so gross and it spelled just the heaving way I remember it with a hint of fish-yuck, yuck, yuck!
Went to Herbs and Spices for dinner last night. I had this fish curry which was a bad, bad idea as it reminded me of the fishy smell on Whitefield Road and had a bad tummy when we got home. Also had confusion as to whether we needed roti or rice. I thought we had settled on a few rotis and some rice but we seemed to end up with far too many rotis and no rice at all! Should have known that when the whole meal began with confusion over the wine that it would go this way.
But on the flip side was a pleasant evening with MT, Muhan and Olivier. We tried to work out why China is so rich and came up with a few suggestions but not one real concrete answer. So if anyone reading this has the answer then please post your comments.
Still on the amazement front here in India, I am amazed at how few road accidents I have seen. There are not really any clear road markings, there seems to be no speed restrictions and everyone just seems to drive a bit crazily and beep their horns all the time. And on top of this there are the cows and stray dogs to watch out for.
There is no way I would drive here. Kumar asked me if I would like to try and I said never! Which reminds me that once back in the States I will actually be allowed to go for my driving license now that I have a different visa. Mind you, can't say I am all that enthralled by the prospect of driving in LA. It always seems to be bumper to bumper!
You know, I still can't get over that you never see two women in the same sari or even close. I always hesitate about buying clothes with patterns because I would not want to go out and have the same on as someone else. That certainly is not a problem here. Today I saw a lady in a turquoise and pink sari and my it was so beautiful. I was wondering too, when did Indian women first start wearing saris, how did it come about that they always wear such happy colors? I know sari literally means strip of cloth but I feel I need to do a little investigating now. Maybe I will report back later?
Oh gosh, I nearly forgot too the monkey was here! I went to get the washing from the machine, its on the little balcony out the back and as I looked to my right there it was just sitting there watching me. We sort of looked at each other, I am sure we made eye contact, I grabbed the washing because it has been known to pee on peoples' things and ran inside. Boy it made me jump! I watched it for a moment through the door making sure it was firmly closed as I have been told it can open them, it had a little scratch and then disappeared over the wall. I have no idea how it managed to climb up elven floors but it did! Maybe I should name it Spidermonkey!!!
Monday, August 16, 2010
Day 43-Monday 16th August 2010
Being here is like total sensory overload. This weekend we have gone from seeing what some consider to be a Seventh Wonder of the World to seeing naked children running through the streets in the rain in New Delhi!
On the plane to New Delhi on Friday night I cam across an article in the in flight magazine suggesting books to read about India. In the opening paragraph to the article, the writer described a first timers visit to India akin to Alice in Wonderland falling down the rabbit's hole and into a world of chaos and wonder. It's exactly like that!
I honestly don't know where to begin with this weekend. Tourist India or real India? I think I will do Tourist India first, although as I write it may just mix all into one, let's see how it goes.
So we had 3 hours sleep on Friday night and were up at six to drive to Agra. The driver actually arrived just before five so we got a call from reception to say he was there-might as well not have gone to bed! Plus I had a head ache.
It took maybe 4 hours to get to Agra. Although I had wanted to get the train to Agra I was actually really glad we had opted for a driver given the sleep situation and the sweltering heat! Non stop dripping all weekend-gross! But was refreshed to see that everyone Indian and tourist were in the same boat and there was a constant whipping of foreheads with hankies!
We stopped for breakfast and I had a massala omlete-tastey! There was a variety of mango options on the menu which is why I was quite surprised when they told us there was no mango! Not a huge problem on the grand scheme of things.
Oh and we saw one of the men I had read about dressed in a sari! It was a little bizarre because he was hardly petit, in fact he/she looked quit butch and masculine even with the red lipstick. I have been told its bad luck not to give them money so was a little relieved that we only saw he/she from the car. Apparently they have also organized themselves into gangs to get money from people!
As we got into Agra the driver stopped and this guide just got into the car. He made it out that this had been organized. I texted MT's boss who had sorted the diver for us and he said that this was not part of the deal. He could have been any random just hopping in. We kept him in the end as he was somewhat useful especially the tip on seeing the Taj Mahal from the other side of the river in the evening, but I think he realized we were not that interested and left us to do most of the Taj Mahal ourselves.
I think he was probably put off us by the fact that I asked questions that were out of sync with his tourist scpheel and when he asked us about the Taj's optical illusion MT in true Mt style was able to tell him the answer. Well he does work in 3D!
On top of that and this is really silly I know but I carry this little cow around with me wherever I go. MT gave it to me one day at university so it's about ten years old and he just came up behind me one day as I was walking home and popped it in my hand. It was just meant to be a cute little gift I think.
Then when our Grandpa was in hospital I gave it to him and it sat by his bed and the same for our Grandma and I have given it to various friends when they have needed a bit of luck or have had some one they love who has been poorly. It is small enough to fit in your hand so you can play with it, a bit like worry beads.
Sometimes I hold it in my hand when I fly alone. The cow is a bit like taking our Grandpa with me, I guess its kind of a way of keeping him alive-my gosh I must sound like a real fruit loop now! It's also funny that its a cow being in India because here they are sacred! Grandpa said that he would like to go to the Taj Mahal and I said if he could not go then I would go for the both of us some day.
So when the security people looked through my bag and told me I could not take my moo-cow in as I call it, I actually cried! The fact that they seemed to laugh too really did not help the situation. What a baby! I had a headache too and last week had been a bit pants so I think this was just the cherry on the cake. Anyway the guide said he could leave it with someone and I could get it back afterwards and I did-phew and hooray!
So as I am having a grandparent moment, I was also determined to take some some great shots for our Granny to send to her. She likes to paint so I try to take pictures of things I think she would like to paint. I always have these good intentions but sometimes don't get round to printing them! In fact she even has a group of ladies who go to her house once a week and she sort of has a class-most impressive I think considering that she was not well so long ago and she is in her eighties now. She always makes us birthday cards by hand too. Must call her again and tell her where we have been this weekend.
I did wonder what I would think of the Taj Mahal, would it be as amazing as all of the literature and people say and yes it certainly was! It really is quite breathtaking and stunning and so beautifully made. To go inside they give the tourists these funny sock things to go over your shoes. I would have been happy to take my sandals off. I think its actually a secret ploy to polish the floors as you go around!!
I also worked out that it must have been built around the time of the Restoration period in England when Charles II came back to the throne. I like to know what is happening in terms of history and kings and queens so I can put it it all into some perspective and have some understanding of what was going on at that time.
Afte a sweltering few hours although well worth it, we left and went for lunch and after that to Agra Fort. Its made of red sandstone and was built around 1565 so James I was King of England and Philip II was King of Spain and I think maybe doing battle with the Ottomans. Need to check this so if any history buffs are reading then please leave a comment at the end of the blog.
From the Fort you can see the Taj Mahal and there is a bit of a sad story that goes with this that actually my friend Rose told me. Shah Jahan who had had the Taj Mahal built for for his favorite wife Mumtaz Muhal spent the last years of his life imprisoned here looking out to the mausoleum he built for his wife. There had been some conflict with his son, money spending issues and his son had said he had spent far too much money on the Taj Mahal and not enough on the people-he could have well been right!!!
It was his third son I think who had him put under house arrest at the Fort and that's where he died. His son refused to give him a state funeral and he was floated, maybe he was taken in a boat, in a sandalwood coffin to the Taj Mahal to be buried next to his wife.
History lesson over and moving on. So after the Fort we drove to a spot the guide had told us about where you can see the Taj Mahal from across the river. We wanted to see it in a different light in the evening. I was really surprised by the lack of tourists, there must have been maybe twenty of us so it was real gem of a spot. Not sure if this is correct but I think its the site where there had been an intention to build a black Taj Mahal.
We stayed for maybe half an hour and then left because I think the driver was a bit annoyed that we had wanted to stop. Plus it had been a super long day and I think we ere all feeling rather pooped!! On the way back to the car a young girl asked me if I first had any sweets, then chewing gum and then salmon! Yes salmon of all the funny things to ask for!
Then she asked me for a pen and I had one, quite a nice purple one so I gave it to her. She was joined by a few other children. I had brought a packet of pens with me to give to children and so I said we had some in the car. The children followed and when we we got to the car I gave them to the the boys to hand out. I kind of knew it would be hectic and there were not enough pens in the pack for all of them . I should have taken two packets-next time I will.
So we made the four hour drive back to New Delhi. It was busy when we got back to the city, lots of construction work going on of roads and flyovers, there were people sleeping in rickshaws, on make shift beds, on the floor, under the partly constructed overhead roads.
This is what I mean by sensory overload you just go from extremes of wonder to chaos. People everywhere, crowded into buses, onto the top of lorries. Its like a competition to see how much stuff and how many people you can get into one vehicle. Horns beeping all the time, stray dogs, make shift homes made of plastic or corrugated iron.
It was all a bit much and I found myself wanting to just close my eyes and sleep but was compelled to watch the people and the scenes as we were stuck at night time in grid lock traffic in New Delhi!
No more for now. Maybe I will do New Delhi tomorrow, maybe later. Also need to write some postcards.
Friday, August 13, 2010
Day 40-Friday 13th August 2010
It's blog time! Friday 13th, unlucky for some but I think this week I have had my fair share of unlucky incidents given the dogs, the bag incident, the ass hole at the travel agent and so on.... But time to move on!
Oh and I also saw picture of a very good friend on FB and because of the way she was standing and also I know that she would like to have a baby I thought she may be pregnant. So I emailed her to ask. I thought maybe because we are inIndia we had missed out on some exciting news-she's not and I honestly feel really bad. She also said that she would have told us which I should have known. Big woops, just hope the little present I bought for her makes up for it. I think she is okay about it.
Then one of the teachers at Daisy had asked me to help her find resources for pre writing skills so the children could take some work home. I found some and as I did not have her email address I mailed them to the lady who coordinates the curriculums at the school. She mailed me back to say that she had already told the teachers to just go to the market to buy some exercise books. I felt like I had got in the way a bit.
So yesterday I went to Bluebells to teach a lesson with the little ones. On the way I counted 21 temples. Some of them are tiny and they are kind of placed by main roads and dotted in quite remote places where there are just fields. I guess people walk to them although there were a lots of motorbikes parked outside one. I think Thursday is the day a lot of Hindus visit the temples as there were several that seemed really very busy especially the one with the motorbikes. Kumar told me that he had been to the temple yesterday when I asked him if he was going.
When I arrived at Bluebells it was all hectic, well from my perspective, because they are rehearsing for an Independence Day celebration dance. You can imagine trying to teach twenty 3 to 5 year olds to dance and keep them all under control! Some were thoroughly engaged but others were off in the classrooms playing and just running around, It was a little chaotic
We gathered the non performers in one of the classrooms and sat them all down on the mats. I was not entirely sure what I was going to do with them as my experience is not really with teaching very little ones but I thought as they had asked me to I would give it a go.
Once they were all quiet and the teacher had spoken to them in Kanada which is the local language here I took off my colorful scarf and asked them about the colors. They called out the colors and then we counted the colors. Next we gave them all a number card. They came up one by one and collected their number card and were told to keep it a secret.
Then they arranged themselves in rows from 1 to 5, 6 to 10 and so on up to 20. We called out the numbers and they had to stand and go to the correct place. After each series of 5 they sat down in their line. I am not sure I am explaining this very well.
Then each student had to say their number and we timed how long it took them. We did this maybe 4 times until we got it down to 18 seconds.
Next we gave them picture cards, one between two with the letters of the alphabet which is when it all went a little wrong! The children/students are not used to having to share or hold the cards so we ended up with a few arguments and a few torn pictures-woops! Eventually we got each pair to both hold the picture card. One said the letter and one said the picture.
We took all of the cards back in and it was toilet time. Lots of the children just hold up their little finger on their left hand as a sign that they want to go to the toilet. The teachers at most of the schools I have been to are trying to get them to ask to go to the bathroom/toilet in English.
When they returned , we played Simon says.... and that went far better than the picture activity. Then we did some clapping games sort of 3 claps to the right, 3 in the middle and 3 to the left. Its a sort of follow my lead but this seemed to work and go down fairly well.
Over an hour later it was time for lunch and I was quite glad. All of the children have to wash their hands so they all lined up and left the classroom one by one. as there is only one hand wash basin. Getting them to line up without pushing each other was a little challenging but we got there. At Daisy the children all sit on the benches to eat whereas at Bluebells they all sit in a large circle on the floor of the main room. They are all then served , its a military style operation.
I did not stay for lunch and we gave 2 of the teachers a ride up to Silkboard Junction where they could walk or get a bus home. It was a little odd because as they left it only left one teacher plus the lady who cooks to deal with all of the children for lunch.
I stopped off at the supermarket to get some water and then walked home. There were some stray puppy dogs on the way home, quite cute but I am rather wary of the dogs now although the ones on the main street remain quite docile and unchallenging. Also passed the Pani Puri man.
We have had some interesting discussion this week about standards of living and what is acceptable and what is not. Detlef pointed out that since Bangalore has developed and many companies have come here it has actually provided a lot of opportunities. Many people have benefited and their standard of life has improved. And yes I certainly acknowledge this and maybe if Bangalore does continue to develop maybe the slum areas will eventually disappear.
My concern is that it will make the divide between people even bigger. There will still be people who cannot get out of these areas and they will become poorer and poorer. Might be wrong, after all India has survived for this long and there is no sign of it slowing down so even if by some of our standards some things are not right then there are some things here that must be working.
Flying to New Delhi tonight and then going to see the Taj Mahal tomorrow.
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